The install is quite simple, as the product is very well thought out in every way. This is one solid piece of equipment for your bike. I was convinced in the past that a single unit was not a good idea for several reasons. The first reason was the hassle getting to the transmission drain plug. JD has found a solution and all the has to be done is to remove the front bolts on the shock and the whole unit pivots out of the way. That is it...2 bolts. The second reason is I was told by a friend that a 1 piece unit could possibly put too much stress on the swing arm bearings.
I never thought of the added benefit of extra stability from a 1 piece unit. The bike feel so solid and handles so well now that I had to remind myself I was on a softail. I literally felt like I was on rails and sought out as many bumps as I possibly could to test the ability of the shock. With the shock adjusted properly (which will take a little bit of time to figure out for me) I felt absolutely nothing of the bumps, cracks, dips, or anything else i could find on the road. The ride home was about 50 miles so I feel I had a fair amount of different types of terrain to be confident with my findings.
JD welcomed me into his shop and treated me as family. This is very welcome and nice to find as I have dealt with many companies that could care less once you purchase their products. Don't get me wrong, there are quite a few good vendors out there as well, but it is always nice to meet someone who is straight up and willing to take the time to answer all of your questions and thoroughly explain the product. I asked about 100 questions and he answered them all easily with concise answers that all made sense.
So on to the install. Remove the splash guard. Then remove the old shocks. Jack the bike up and support the rear wheel with a stand or floor jack. Loosen the lock nuts and rear shock bolts. Pull off the bolts holding the stock shocks. Remove the shocks from the bike but don't lose the rubber bushings for the front of shocks as you will reuse them. The rear bolts will also be reused. Set them aside for now.
Shocks removed ( there is no need to remove the rear wheel!)
Tap the two holes on the bottom of the transmission 7/16 14. the cutome bracket for mounting the compressor is really nice and holds it in place very sturdily. The compressor has also fits in perfectly. It is a tight fit but there is plenty of room. Once the holes are tapped, bolt the compressor to the freshly tapped holes. Use loctite. There is a recess in the bracket to allow for the wiring of the compressor so that the wires will not get pinched. All connections are made via Molex connectors that are preinstalled so all you have to do is plug them in, and use the heavy duty shrink wrap supplied with the kit over the connectors to keep them clean and dust free. The compressor can be mounted either way, but mine is mounted the way it was designed to be mounted with the head on the exhaust side of the bike.
This is a beautiful and powerful compressor that raises the bike FAST! Compare it to that of a Hi Lo and it dwarfs the competition!
Next disconnect the battery cables and remove the battery. This is to allow access to the space to run the wiring. Run the wiring through the back of the battery box on the RIGHT side of the bike so as to keep it away from the belt which is on the left.
CONTACT ME AT DREW@DRVTWIN.COM OP CALL THE SHOP AT (818)501-TWIN FOR MORE INFORMATION AND DISCOUNTED PRICING
DREW
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